- Teresa O'Kane
- Author of Safari Jema, A Journey of Love and Adventure from Casablanca to Cape Town http://tinyurl.com/owdwvrp I write about travel and adventure from my home in California and from Africa. I've sailed a catamaran from California to Hawaii, trekked in the Himalayas, worked as a construction manager on a bridge project in Zambia, hiked 500 miles of the Camino de Santiago, (http://bootsbedouinsandabridge.blogspot.com/) and traveled in over 100 countries and all seven continents. Indie Book Award Winner for Best Memoir of 2012, New York Book Festival Honorable Mention for Non-Fiction, San Francisco Book Festival Honorable Mention for Non-Fiction, Travelers Tales Solas Award for Best Travel Writing Honorable Mention for My Gambian Husband. Indie Book Award Finalist - Best Travel Book 2013. BOTYA Honorable Mention 2013 - Travel Essay. Member of The Explorers Club since 2013 You can follow my current 2013-2014 expedition across Africa, this time in a 1973 Land Rover Series III 109 on http://teresaokane.blogspot.com/ and on facebook https://www.facebook.com/safarijema
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
“Shall we go get our Compostelas? You’ve earned an indulgence, you know,” Scott said. If you hike the Camino in a Holy Year the Church rewards pilgrims an indulgence meaning, in the eyes of the Church, all sins are forgiven. I would be leaving Santiago with a “clean slate” so to speak.
“Are you kidding? I’m not going to turn that down!” I said and we made our way to The Pilgrim Office nearby.
At the Office, one of 10 officials checked our credentials; our pilgrim passports with the many stamps we received along the way proving we had walked The Way of St. James, and issued us Compostela certificates. Our certificates are different because Scott went for the cultural Compostela. “How was your journey?” asked the Church official as she filled in my name in Latin. “It was really great." I replied wiping my tears. I could not stop crying! "And we arrived at the Cathedral in time to see the Botafumeiro fly.”
“You were very lucky!” she said. “The Botafumeiro only makes an appearance during special Feast Days or if a group has made a large donation.”
Scott and Tris
Celebrating with champagne, Ruffles and chocolate, (as usual)
Monday, May 3, 2010
It seems almost everyone has a reason for hiking The Camino.
A woman I met from Argentina wants a more intimate relationship with God. Another from America sees it as a challenge of endurance. Linda from Canada is doing it, “For my sins and for the sins of the world.” Another from Italy said she is trying very hard to feel the spiritual aspect of the Camino but had felt nothing yet. In the meantime, she is enjoying meeting other twenty-something Europeans. Cyclist Jo from London said she is doing it to be “bikini fit!” A Finnish woman is doing it because of job and life burn out back home. A South African woman is hiking the trail as a way of mourning her ex-husband who had recently passed away unexpectedly. "I don't feel finished", she said. Edward from Germany returned to the Camino for the second time because, “The day I arrived in Santiago 4 years ago was the happiest day of my life.” A Slovenian woman gave the ever-reliable explanation, “To find myself!”
People such as Ju Yun from Korea who said at dinner one night, “I want to be a pediatrician and I have twelve years of schooling ahead of me to achieve this. But the most important thing to me is that I have a good marriage and family.” Then he got this huge smile on his face. “When I think of what a good relationship my parents have, it gives me goose skin!” A Frenchman at the table asked, “Do you have a girl in mind?” Ju Yun threw out his arms and said, “Of course! I am a twenty year old boy. I always have girls on my mind!”
I tried to talk to him in Spanish. It came out, “Our Spanish is not well. Please speak slow." Through charades and Spanish For Idiots he explained that he had walked the Camino himself 30 years prior. “'By the time I arrived in that village” he pointed to a nearby village that could be seen through the trees “I was very ill and had to stay there a few days before continuing." then he got a great big smile on his face. "I never left the village. The young woman who had nursed me back to health became my wife!”
In a refugio in Villamayor we met Miriam whose walk to Santiago ten years earlier meant so much to her she gives back to the Camino by volunteering at refugios several times a year for a week or two at a time. In Villamayor, there is no grocery store and only one place in town that serves meals, the Bar. But the bar was closed temporarily because the owner had died. It was Miriam who cooked dinner for ten of us, then cooked another entire meal when 4 cyclists came in after 9pm and made breakfast for all of us the next morning. It was only our 5th night on the trail and I pestered Miriam with practical questions about the walk; How many kilometers per day is average, where is the best refugio in Burgos and, “does it rain as much as they say in the Galicia region?”
“Oh yes!” she answered. “But it is perfect! The rain mixes with the tears on your checks at the moment you see the cathedral in Santiago for the first time.”
As we came out of a store in a small village one morning A Dutch man broke his stride long enough to say, “I am walking 1000 kilometers to Santiago. I picked my starting point in France because from that town to Santiago is exactly 1000 kilometers!”
There is an old custom on the Camino. If you are hiking in a group the person who catches the first glimpse of the Cathedral in Santiago earns the title "The Pilgrim King." When we asked the Dutchman if he heard of the tradition he said, "Of course! That's why I walk alone!" and he shook our hands and carried on his way.
A man from Brazil proclaimed one day as he breezed by us, “Five is my magic number. I have five degrees, five post graduate degrees, this is the fifth time I have walked the Camino and I am turning fifty this year.” He looked profoundly sad and lonely as he walked on alone.
A German woman we had seen periodically over several days on the trail ended up in the same refugio as us one night. We sat outside on a bench in the sun while she told us her story. She had been an engineer in the automotive industry but had begun hearing voices after a fall off a horse. She would go into work and say to her colleagues, “I know that you've been talking about me. I know what you have been saying.” She lost her job and went to a psychic who told her, “You are not crazy. You are gifted,” and that her calling was not to be an engineer, but a healer. At this point Scott interrupted with, “I think the hospitaliar might need help preparing dinner,” and disappeared into the albergue. The engineer, I mean healer, rolled and lit another cigarette and said with a chuckle, “You would think the first thing I would do to heal myself would be to quit smoking.”
“Well, maybe the second thing,” I suggested gently. “You might want to talk to someone else about those voices you are hearing. You know, get a second opinion.”
“No, I’m definitely a healer. I healed my ankles already!”
“Did I just hear the dinner bell?” I asked.
We are definitely meeting unique people on the Camino. Scott says many seem to be looking for an audience, "So much interesting history to discuss yet they seem to go on and on about themselves!" True, there is more than a little narcissism here on the Camino. It reminds me of something a wise Irish priest once said, “a little self reflection can be a good ting but taking yourself too seriously, now dat’s a sin.”
Despite impressively tall church towers or spires in almost every town we walk through, it’s the people that stand out on the Camino.
On The Camino, (585 kilometers walked, only 130 kilometers to go!)
We lost The Handkerchief,(http://bootsbedouinsandabridge.blogspot.com/2010/04/handkerchief.html)
I wonder who has it now?